On our tour of the National Parks, we spent around eight and a half to nine hours exploring Mesa Verde National Park, and it felt like we barely scratched the surface of all there is to see. Mesa Verde National Park is unique in that it holds the remains of ancient civilizations on the mesas and in the cliffs and is a must see for history buffs.
We arrived at the park entrance early, around 8 a.m., and began our journey along a fifteen-mile winding, uphill road that led us to the Visitor’s Center. Along the way, we were greeted by deer and stunning views of Mesa Verde, aptly named “green table” in Spanish for its tree-covered plateaus.
At the Visitor’s Center, I purchased tickets for two Ranger-led tours—Cliff Palace and Balcony House. These tickets are quite affordable and absolutely worth it for the opportunity to explore these incredible sites up close. It’s best to get your tickets early in the day, not only to avoid them selling out but also to enjoy the tours when the temperatures are cooler and the crowds thinner. However, be prepared for some physical challenges on these tours, as they involve climbing ladders, squeezing through small openings, and navigating steep paths.
Cliff Palace, the largest cliff dwelling in North America, boasts over 150 individual rooms and more than 20 kivas (ceremonial rooms). Our tour group, consisting of about thirty people, was led by Ranger Brooke from Iowa. At the overlook, she shared the fascinating story of how Cliff Palace was discovered on December 18, 1888, by the Wetherill family while they were searching for cattle. From there, we descended steep metal and stone steps, some through narrow crevices, and followed a quarter-mile path to the ruins.
Just outside the ancient dwellings, Ranger Brooke provided us with captivating insights into the history and significance of the site:
Cliff Palace, dating back to the 1200s, was constructed by the Anasazi, now referred to as Ancestral Puebloans, who are the ancestors of modern tribes like the Hopi and Zuni. This remarkable dwelling housed around 150 people on average. The women were typically about 5 feet tall and lived between 20 to 30 years, while the men stood around 5’5″ and had a lifespan of 30 to 40 years. According to their oral history, they may have migrated from the Grand Canyon region.
Archaeologists have uncovered a wealth of artifacts at Cliff Palace, including food remnants, tools, fragments of turkey feather blankets, yucca rope, and even skeletal remains.
The structures were built from stone and mortar, with wooden roofs—some of the original timbers have survived to this day. Storage rooms were ingeniously tucked into the eaves of the cliffs.
The Ancestral Puebloans farmed on the mesas above and carried their harvest down to the dwellings in baskets strapped to their backs. They navigated the steep cliffs using hand and toe holds carved into the rock. I marveled how they were able to scale the cliffs and wondered if anyone ever fell off.
Their water source was a seep spring located in the back of the alcove, which continues to flow today. The water had to be carried to their homes in pots.
In addition to farming, the inhabitants of Cliff Palace crafted coiled clay pottery, carved wood, and ground corn.
They did not bathe or brush their teeth, and malnutrition and childbirth were leading causes of death.
Amazingly, 80% of Cliff Palace remains original, with only minor shoring done to preserve it. Each family had its own kiva, a round, subterranean chamber that served multiple purposes. Originally, kivas had wooden roofs, fire pits, and air holes. While today they are used primarily for ceremonies, in the past, they were also living spaces. In December, these kivas became centers for storytelling, where elders passed down oral histories to the younger generations. Families could access the kiva directly from their living quarters.
To enter Cliff Palace, we first had to climb a ladder, which led us into the ancient site where we could explore and take in the surroundings (though we were reminded not to touch anything!). The exit was more challenging: we navigated steep stone steps through narrow crevices and then climbed three or four more ladders. While the tour is labeled as strenuous, I found it to be more moderate—though perhaps that’s just a testament to my growing familiarity with such adventures.
We drove over to Balcony House for my next Ranger-led tour. Scott from South Dakota was our Ranger, and forty-three people were on this tour. The Balcony House tour was definitely more demanding, requiring more effort to enter and exit. Before we tackled the 100-step metal staircase, Scott gave us an informative lecture, which set the stage for the fascinating details we would learn at the site:
Balcony House also dates back to the 1200s. The area was first settled around 6600-900 AD, then abandoned for Chocko, only for its inhabitants to return later. A severe drought from 1279 to 1299 eventually drove everyone away. According to Scott, the residents came here seeking their “Center place.”
Situated in Soda Canyon, Balcony House gets its name from the white calcium deposits left on the sandstone by seeping springs. We saw one of these springs in action, where water trickled through the rock, adding a unique touch to the landscape.
The orientation of Balcony House suggests it may have been used as a summer residence. Facing northeast, it would have been too cold in winter to be comfortable.
The inhabitants farmed on the mesa tops, benefiting from the additional snowfall and moisture. They grew crops like corn, beans, and squash, and hunted elk, deer, bear, and possibly buffalo (buffalo bones have been discovered at other sites).
Yucca plants, with their yellow flowers, were used to make durable sandals.
The construction of Balcony House involved stone and mortar, with chinking stones pressed into the mortar for added stability. The mortar itself was made from a mix of ash, urine or water, and soil or clay. Deer antler tools were used to chisel and smooth the stone walls.
To reach the site, we descended metal and stone stairs before climbing a daunting thirty-two-foot double ladder. The site was divided into two areas.
Area One featured an original wall at the edge, suggesting it might have been used for children or animals. One of the buildings had a narrow balcony that resembled a fireplace mantel, with small window-sized doors leading out. Smaller openings allowed in air and light, while a rock with a small indentation possibly served as a primitive clock or calendar.
The kivas at Balcony House were likely used for ceremonial purposes, with men using them in summer and women in winter. Access to the kivas was through a ladder that lowered occupants into the chamber from the room above.
To explore Area Two, we followed the original route, climbing stone indentations (natural stairs) and squeezing through a very narrow opening—I had to suck it in to fit through. This area lacked a retaining wall and seemed to have been used for cooking or ceremonial activities rather than as a living space.
The exit was an adventure in itself. We took the original exit route, which involved navigating two very short and narrow passages—I crawled through one and duck-walked through the other, almost getting stuck. We emerged onto a cliff edge (safeguarded by a fence), climbed another ladder, and walked along stone steps with only chain handrails for support before finally making our way out.
I thoroughly enjoyed both tours, which were quite affordable. They provided an intimate glimpse into two otherwise inaccessible cliff dwellings, offering insights into how the Ancestral Puebloans might have lived. While much remains a mystery, their way of life has been pieced together from the remnants left behind and information passed down by their descendants, such as the Hopi and Zuni.
Next, we visited Spruce Tree House, another fascinating cliff dwelling that is self-guided. The route there was a winding, downhill paved path, which felt quite steep on the return trip. At Spruce Tree House, we had the opportunity to descend a ladder into a replica kiva—an experience that was dark, chilly, and round. The site bore some similarities to Cliff Palace but had its own unique characteristics.
After exploring all these cliff dwellings, I couldn’t help but wonder: who looked at these steep cliffs and thought, “Let’s build our town there!”? The ingenuity and determination it must have taken to create these remarkable homes in such a challenging location is truly a marvel. It was astonishing to think that people managed to live almost clinging to the cliff sides. I also wondered how comfortable these homes were.
Afterward, we drove the Mesa Top Loop, where we encountered several ruins spanning different time periods: pit houses from around 600 AD, pueblos from 900-1100 AD, and views of cliff dwellings from the 1200s. I couldn’t help but wonder if these cliff dwellings were occupied simultaneously and by the same tribe.
We concluded our day at Far View Sites, where we explored a series of five pueblos.
The park offers a cafeteria, an intriguing archaeological museum, and a bookstore. The best way to experience Mesa Verde is to drive the loop around the park, stopping to explore the various ruins along the way. Be sure to set aside an entire day to fully appreciate all that the park has to offer.
If you want to go
Mesa Verde National Park official site